Sunday, September 16, 2012

Leaving and First Days



Saying goodbye when you go into the Peace Corps is kind of like attending your own funeral. It's a little awkward. People cry, talk about how different everything will be without you, and reminisce about good times gone by. Meanwhile, you just sort of stand there, a little excited for what's to come, and a little nervous, and not quite sure how to confront an emotional outpour like that. After all, two years is a long time to be gone, so the emotions are natural. But you also know full well that you're going to come back, fully intact, and better than ever, so it can be hard to get on the same page.

I spent my last week saying goodbye. To family, which was the most difficult, and to friends, which was also difficult, but in a way fun, and often revealed emotions that left me feeling even closer to the person I was leaving. I am better for the process of saying goodbye, if only because it provided some desperately needed closure.

I drove to the airport with my dad, my stepmother, and my step sister. We said goodbye at the security checkpoint (for some reason MKE lets guests past the ticketing area and into the shopping space beyond) and then I boarded my flight to DC. The Peace Corps holds a staging event somewhere in the United States for each departing group. In our case, we were staging in DC for one day before boarding our flight to Macedonia. Staging consists of some get-to-know-you events, information about the Peace Corps, and a genuine opportunity to reflect on why you have committed to serve and if that is a commitment you are prepared to keep.

My day in DC started with my arrival at the airport. I collected my overweight luggage at baggage claim (the fee generously waived by the woman at the Milwaukee Airport when I told her I was joining the Peace Corps) and headed out the door to catch a shuttle to the hotel. Fortunately, the shuttle was sitting immediately in front of the gate I walked out of, so I threw my things aboard and jumped on. Arriving at the hotel, my room wasn’t ready—as expected—so I stowed my stuff in their baggage check space. As I was doing this I ran into another guy, Patrick, also arriving for the Peace Corps. He checked himself in, dropped off his luggage, and we walked to a nearby mall to grab some lunch. My appetite is never good when I’m feeling anxious, but I managed to cram down some food before the training started.

We made our way back to the hotel after lunch and met a few other volunteers. Kelly and Jessica specifically, but the others soon began to trickle in for the beginning of the first session. We started with a mountain of paperwork and didn’t properly start the day until about an hour after that. As people completed their paperwork they entered a separate room and icebreaking activities began. The Peace Corps icebreakers actually worked exceptionally well. By the end of the day I knew almost everyone’s name—no small feat for someone terrible with names in a room full of almost 40 people. The rest of the day was filled with self-reflection and information about the Peace Corps—useful, but not a terribly exciting subject for a blog post.

As the day wore on we all got tired, and I began to get sick. I had the misfortune of developing a sore throat and cold during the last few days before my departure, and seven hours locked in a room talking did nothing to alleviate my symptoms. By the end of the day it was actually painful to swallow or talk. I really made the effort to keep myself involved with the group though, so as everyone went out to dinner at California Pizza Kitchen for the evening I tagged along. We all sat and split pizzas in pairs, so my pizza-buddy Karen and I split an artichoke heart and spinach pizza. Delicious.

After dinner we had pledged to go back to the hotels rotating rooftop bar to have a beer and take in the view of the city. The bar’s $10 cover charged wrecked those plans (and I discovered how cheap I really am!). We settled instead for a beer in the lobby with some good company. Shooting the shit for about an hour or so, I decided to retire for the evening and went to my room. I loaded up on every kind of cough medicine dreading the thought of a 9-hour flight the next day feeling so sick, and went to bed.

I slept well and felt considerably better in the morning. We grabbed some breakfast at the mall, packed our things, and checked out of our rooms. I had been advised that the airline might not be so lenient about the weight policy at Dulles, so I packed a separate checked bag and my awesome roommate Sam checked it as one of his own. In some freak-of-nature way he managed to pack only one carry-on. I was seriously impressed (and thankful). The flight to Vienna from Skopje was uneventful. I watched Moonrise Kingdom, which was very pleasant, read the first chapter of Team of Rivals, and caught an hour or two of sleep. We had a quick stopover in Vienna, not much to say about that, followed by another quick flight to Skopje.

Skopje was absolutely wonderful, though rainy. The airport was new and nice, the people were friendly, and the Peace Corps staff and volunteers met us to help us with our luggage. It was an amazing reception after travelling for so long. We threw our luggage in a truck and all hopped on a bus for the ride to Kumanovo, where our training takes place for the first week. On the bus ride we got an opportunity to meet some of the Peace Corps staff that we will be working with over the next two years and learn a little bit more about how they help us during our service.

We arrived at our hotel to more cheering Peace Corps Volunteers who had shown up to greet us and help us carry our luggage upstairs. We were placed on the 2nd European floor of the hotel, so the 3rd in the United States. The help was much appreciated. After we dropped our bags I showered and changed, then went down for lunch. At lunch we got our first allotment of walking around money, which is essentially just spending money for the time we’re in training when we don’t have to pay for meals or housing. It was really nice to have a little cash, and I promptly bought a beer to go with the enormous lunch spread that the Peace Corps set out for us. It was definitely a nice introduction to the cuisine in Macedonia, and I ate my fill.

After lunch some of the volunteers retreated to their rooms to catch up on some sleep, while others, myself included, ventured out with some of the veteran volunteers for a walk around the neighborhood. Along our walk we stopped at a local house/show (one in the same, I think) and the MAK15s and 16s (we’re 17s) chatted a bit with the owners. They grew grapes, along with other crops, and made wine and Rakija. Rakija is Macedonia’s local alcohol. The Irish have whiskey, the British have gin, the Russians have vodka, and the balkan countries have Rakija. A couple of my fellow 17s and I went in on a bottle of this moonshine Rakija (after assurances from the 15s and 16s that it would not blind us) and got a 1.5L bottle for 300 denar. That’s $6. Rock n’ roll.

We walked back and had a short meeting with some of the 15s and 16s about the volunteer services available to us. Truthfully, exhaustion had majorly set in for me at that point, so I was having trouble staying awake during portions of the presentation. I got the essentials though! After that we all had a light dinner and chatted a bit more, then the rakija came out.

I spent the rest of the night drinking rakija and playing spoons (with pens) with some of the finest company I have ever kept. The conversation went from strange to absurd but never left the realm of entertaining. All around: a wonderful first night in Macedonia. I think I could get used to this.